ZeBadger.com

After a few attempts at this I have finally worked out how to do this.

1) Plug the wireless adapter into a charger
Do no use your car data USB connection.
Either use a car cigarette lighter charger, or a wall charger in your house.

2) Once it is powered up, connect to the Wifi. Mine looks like “smartBox-A12B”

3) If asked, choose always connect.

4) Navigate on Chrome to http://192.168.1.101/ (or whatever your manual says)

5) At the bottom of the page, it will show “Online Update – Checking for updates”, and “Switch P2P”.
Given that we’re now connected to this device, there’s no internet access, so “Checking for updates” never works.
If you disconnect the Wifi it will detect new firmware (if there is any), but then if you click update it will fail because you are no longer connected to the device.
The way around this is to…

6) Click “Switch P2P”.

7) In your Android phone settings go to Connections -> Wi-Fi -> 3 dots in the top right -> Wi-fi Direct and it should find something like “smartBox-A12B”
You will also need to be connected to the internet some other way, like mobile internet or your home wi-fi.

8) Go back to Chrome and you should be able to refresh the http://192.168.1.101/ page and perform an update as you would expect.

9) The first time I did the update it zoomed up to 70%, but then slowly went up from there.

10) After you have updated, you might find that there are more updates. You will probably need to power off the device and power it back on again to get it to stop thinking that there
are updates. You will need to re-do the above process to get it back into Wi-fi direct mode if you need to update again.

11) You should now go into your Wi-fi settings and find the smartbox network, press and hold it and choose “Forget Network” as it is only needed for updating the firmware.

Here is a London, UK mirror of the files

https://zebadger.com/haiku-r1beta5-x86_64-anyboot.iso (64 bit)

https://zebadger.com/haiku-r1beta5-x86_gcc2h-anyboot.iso (32 bit)

$ sha256sum haiku-r1beta5-x86_*
22ae312a38e98083718b6984186e753d15806bd6ea44542144fdcef42c4dcb69 haiku-r1beta5-x86_64-anyboot.iso
bd6d5015ce1d94ab2c3fa2f4f685491249938bde9acc55345f76098eb2ea424f haiku-r1beta5-x86_gcc2h-anyboot.iso

I have just renewed my Virgin Media contract and they sent me a new Hub 5 as part of the deal.

My old hub was in modem only mode, so I thought it would be easy to swap them out.

However, my router was failing to connect to it, saying “Not connected”. I tried many times but I could just not get it working. I could connect to the internet directly from the hub, but not via the router. I found a note about the 5x hub (which mine isn’t) that suggested taking the hub out of modem only mode and in the settings disabling UPNP, DMZ and DHCP, before switching back to modem mode.

I followed these instructions and sure enough, when I switched back to modem only mode my router connected immediately.

Sigh.

I’ve written a 5 day blood pressure record form for my father. The one that was provided by the doctor wasn’t very intuitive.

You can access it on Google Docs here : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pUDhr3YuVaerV4CJGScBGCSyO4KwNSNFO8rITQTj0rM/edit?usp=sharing

If you have a Freetrade account and want to keep track of your dividends in a simple table / graph, then I have written a Google Spreadsheet to help.

Step Instruction
1 Got to the Activity Tab on the Freetrade app
2 Click the Share icon in the top right corner
3 Select all activity
4 Select Gmail, or similar, to email it to yourself
5 Clear everything in the Full Export tab
6 Open your export in Google Sheets, copy all data
7 Paste the data from the export at the first cell the Full Export tab
8 View your dividend overview on the Dividends tab

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kGhEDiDVKsY2kS_G10e3fthJacIkR77tGcMHmm5TQFo/

I had a camera “front”.
I renamed it in the config to “front1” and added another camera called “front2”.
Once I was happy with my new higher resolution camera, I removed the old one and went back to just one camera in the config called “front”. I think that this caused all my recordings to disappear from disk.

However, the Frigate database seemed to think that they were still there. Deleting them all manually is somewhat tedious (especially because I had 29k of them!). So, I decided to delete them from the sqlite database with a command.

First I installed a sqlite client:

sudo apt install sqlite3

Then I worked out the date timestamp value that I needed by visiting Epoch Converter and picking the date time that I know I made a mess.

Yr Mon Day Hr Min Sec
2023- 6- 29 21 : 0 : 0 GMT
Human date to Timestamp
Epoch timestamp: 1688072400
Timestamp in milliseconds: 1688072400000
Date and time (GMT): Thursday, 29 June 2023 21:00:00
Date and time (your time zone): Thursday, 29 June 2023 22:00:00 GMT+01:00

I then copied the Timestamp in milliseconds into my delete command

$ sudo sqlite3 frigate.db
SQLite version 3.34.1 2021-01-20 14:10:07
Enter “.help” for usage hints.
sqlite> delete from event where start_time <= 1688072400; sqlite> .q

It took a few seconds, but dropped my events from 29k to 71.